
A
Very Northern Funeral
K
G takes the longest journey home.
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Brussels south station - early morning. Outside,
gangs of muggers prowl the builders yard that is the
station car park, attracted by the rich pickings on
offer courtesy of the bemused business folk who wander
aimlessly around the maze of corrugated plastic sheeting
and palates of brick, cement and cabling, searching
for the sanctuary that is the taxi rank, a promise
of a quick getaway from depression and squalor.
Inside,
once through passport control you are cocooned within
a tiny bubble of Englishness, connected to Albion
via a thin corridor of rail and a fucking great big
hole in the ground. Sarf Lahdan jeans and trainers
and pinstripes of Chelsea stare disapprovingly at
anyone with the effrontery to speak Flemish or French.
This train goes to Waterloo, Belgium and France are
simply in the way.
Brit Eurostar novices coo and ahh and ooooh at how
a train can travel at over milk float velocities without
doing somersaults. The tunnel virgins squeal with
excitement at the announcement that at any moment
we will be diving underground. 2 minutes later they
realise this is no Forth Bridge, it goes dark for
20 minutes and then you're in Kent.
As
the train crawls over the English tracks like
an Olympic athlete running in callipers, I have more
than enough time to think about why I'm here, on this
train heading North for the second time in a little
under 8 weeks, to confront the reality of a personal
loss. I remember coming back from a day out in Brugge,
where I spent an afternoon supping one of the great
ales of the world in one of the great bars of the
world. I remember checking my mail, and suddenly here
was my sister, telling me our mam was dead. Numb.
Give me alcohol.
Arrangements are made, holidays and tickets booked,
suitcases packed.
At
King's Cross the wife interfaces with the social
skills course smile of the ticket drone. I am not
in the mood for any social interaction that involves
translating chirpy-cockney-sparra-esque. The south
of England does not like me, and I do not like it.
I am not in the fairest of moods. I need/want to be
212 miles due North of here. I would like to achieve
this objective in reasonable comfort and without a
financial transaction on the scale of a major city
take-over bid.
It would also be nice to travel to York to a time
scale that does not involve the use of a fucking calendar.
Sadly, our only option is to take our lives in our
hands and hang on for grim death aboard a jalopy whose
interior resembles the underneath of Barney Gumble's
sofa. As we sprint down the platform in a desperate
attempt to secure seats we pass the dispirited souls
who only recently made half hearted attempts to make
our conveyance look worthy of the transport of human
beings.
The
trip from King's Cross is punctuated by prolonged
periods of walking speed progress and curious unannounced
stops in the middle of nowhere. Old men with bicycles
cruise past the jewel in the crown of the Great North
Eastern Railway's fleet as it lurches it's way Northwards.
I spend a couple of hours chatting to a teacher sat
opposite, about the systematic way the Tory unmentionables
raped our country. All around the carriage their now
clearly repentant accomplices cough nervously and
smile almost apologetically as we pogo through Grantham.
Just outside of Doncaster, on a stretch of track I
must have traversed at least a thousand times, we
limp over an embankment that only recently decided
it was bored with life, and attempted suicide. Glow
in the dark yellow workmen administer counselling
by the brighter than the sun glare of a million floodlights.
All around vast tracts of Yorkshire lie half submerged,
as if in the opening stages of some monstrous gamble
to turn half the county into a huge paddy field, and
corner the Basmati rice market. Palin's chicken's
have come home to roost. Welcome to the third world
- this is Yorkshire. Surreal.
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When
he's not trying to convince us he lived in our
shed for nigh on forty years, he bellows out the
odd hymn, tells us how awful the world is, how
miserable we all are, and how death is stalking
us at every turn. |
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We
drag ourselves off at York, far from chuffed at
the "you are not worthy" attitude of the GNER flesh
onboard, who have gleefully announced to the inmates
that we have arrived almost half an hour ahead of
their doomsday scenario schedule. Reminding them that
we are in fact two and a half hours later than we
might have been had the Railways not been run along
the lines of a chimp's tea party at Whipsnade zoo
is met with tight lipped smiles and a defiant silence,
with definite overtones of "next time walk then you
clever bastard".
We get in a cab, and hey presto we no longer have
to say things 6 times and exceptionally slowly. We
are understood. Later that evening I fulfil a promise
I made earlier to my brother and we drink an unhealthy
amount of John Smith's best bitter.
The next day. The inner sanctum of relatives
arrive, and the mood is suprisingly up-beat, as though
there exists an unspoken agreement to subscribe to
the "celebration of a life" stance. We make the short
journey to the Chapel of Rest, to meet up with more
of the nearest and dearest. Unconvincing handshakes
and tissue paper thin smiles cannot hide years of
distant indifference.
Time
for a ride in a big black posh car, past buildings
only recently three foot six under water, driven by
a chap who seems to have fallen out of a Victorian
era costume drama. Once at the crematorium, we greet
some cousins, one truly grieving, one idly chewing
gum and constantly consulting a wrist watch with a
barely concealed sense of impatient urgency. Excuses
are offered up for the non-attendance of another cousin,
just in case we are the slightest bit interested in
the reason for his no-show. We are not. I am surprised
to find out that an often mentioned friend of mams,
the legendary figure who shared double shifts at a
munitions factory that once made sweeties was a in
fact a real person.
Inside,
a Methodist minister spends 10 minutes talking about
someone he never met as though they had been joined
at the hip, his clipped, considered Southern tones
finger nails on a blackboard onto which the details
of a very Northern life have been chalked. When he's
not trying to convince us he lived in our shed for
nigh on forty years, he bellows out the odd hymn,
tells us how awful the world is, how miserable we
all are, and how death is stalking us at every turn.
He
presses his secret button with all the aplomb
of Tommy Cooper doing the "spoon-jar-spoon" trick,
and mam is gone. I smile to myself, knowing afterwards
she would have commented on just how nice a pair of
curtains she disappeared behind. I dismiss the thought
that she might be en route to some dreary grey Methodist
run moan-in of an afterlife, preferring to think she
was waiting for a hopper bus to somewhere with 24
hour drop in Bingo, a kettle always on, and something
worth watching on the telly, hopefully a place where
our dad is peeling spuds for dinner, and a small,
white manic dog waits by the front door, ready to
rip the net curtain down in excitement when she gets
there.
The next day. Me, my brother, and his daughter's boyfriend
load up mam's furniture into a hire van, on a mission
to dole it out to two of her grand-daughters. As we
lift her arm-chair up, her hair brush falls out.
As
we prepare to drive away, I look at the unemployed
kids opposite, half heartedly kicking a football about
in the drizzle, quietly muttering who knows what to
themselves.
I take a long last look around the estate I grew up
on, now seemingly populated only by people who have
dropped off the edge of society, or those who are
working themselves into an early grave, clawing their
fingers to the cuticles simply to avoid falling themselves.
I am glad that I shall never have to come here again.
We get in the van, and drive away.